It features 6 outer pockets – 4 zippered pockets on the chest (2 ‘Napoleon’ style and 2 hand warmer style) and 2 pockets with Velcro opening on the thigh (but with restricted opening to avoid inadvertent dropability). that are easy to locate. the ankle, under the armpit and Once upon a time down suits didn’t exist and now they are considered an essential piece of clothing in the high altitude wardrobe. being stretchy, will create more excess The Montane APEX 8000 is the latest addition to the market. It sounds like a simple process, but if you have pulled on the bottom half of your suit and fitted your boots then, if you discover that you have stepped through the braces (and they are not removable) then you have just set yourself back as much as 20 minutes (yes, it does take that long). Post-monsoon (September to November) temperatures are likely to be a little lower. I’ve used 2 piece suits for most of my Everest summits. They weren’t tested in cold conditions because I wouldn’t have a frame of reference from one suit to another. You do get the feeling that these zippers need to be treated with care – especially as materials start to get stiff and unmanageable in the frigid conditions. No need for huge down jackets or heavy Gore Tex if you have the proper layers underneath - even on Everest, K2, or in Antarctica. Don Whillans and Pete Hutchinson designed and tested the first suits way back in the 50s – Don, a plumber by trade, wanted a boiler suit … On October 8th, 2010, Joby Ogwyn stepped out of a small plane hovering over the Himalayas at 29,000 ft and into the history books, becoming the first person to fly a wingsuit next to Mt. The Velcro access front pocket lets this The internal suspenders are not removable which I think is a big potential drawback (see note about the same issue in The North Face suit above) and are made from elastic which means that you have to cinch them quite a bit to get them to hold in the right position … which makes using those internal pockets I mentioned earlier quite difficult. Two of the suits featured non releasable suspenders and I sincerely hope that they rectify this issue (because it is an issue). Likewise do you envisage wearing the boot gaiters over the lower leg of the suit or underneath? This wouldn’t normally be the case – with other manufacturers suits are designed and no changes are possible for a year or so as they have made their forward order. Lightweight Harness • Buy the ascender for your strong hand, not your weak hand (if you are individual requirements. But on the rear of the hood they have gone for 2 separate pulls through the same spring loaded toggle. Mountain Equipment Redline Suit – 2140g (L) – No longer being made! Filled with goose down, it keeps the penetrating cold out. Bespoke suits with a great reputation. Be ski ready with our Everest Down Snow Parka coat featuring nine pockets, perfect for storing your essentials whilst on the slopes. (but are a little bit difficult to find being black at the back. As it is impossible to put on just for a 5- minute rest, a separate down jacket must also be carried. Have . The internal mesh pockets are compromised as seen here by the location of the braces and the elasticated waist band. The other area of adjustability is the ability to vent the suit when you are too warm otherwise dehydration prevails. suit down. best feature. If you envisage always needing to be togged up then you may well want to have a suit, whereas if you envisage sometimes wanting the benefit of a jacket, whilst not necessarily needing the warmth of the salopettes, then the combination may be the choice. Useless. A bit of a fiddly chin guard. As soon as you put this on one great feature is the powerstretch elasticated thumb loop / knuckle warmer (they call it a hobo mitt) at the end of each sleeve and the sleeves also feature Velcro wrist adjustment. A generous and workable hood with one The internal collar can be adjusted to give a very snug fit which means no nasty draughts coming in through the largest opening – the front of the hood. Other than the front zip the only other ventilation is a one way thigh zipper from the hip to the knee which gets compromised as soon as a harness is worn. which works extremely well. There’s no outer zip baffle so, as with the Rab suit, the zipper is directly exposed to the wind and will get frozen with the dripping condensation from your mask. Personally I’m a rainbow drop seat man but this one works nearly as well. The hood adjustment does the hood and the volume all in one by way of an elasticated pull through a fixed toggle on the back of the hood – which worked surprisingly well. If they sort the braces and it will be pegging 1st equal. Basically it’s a modular approach and certainly quantifies their revolutionary claim. And because there are 3 individual items they’re much easier to pack in to the spaces in your rucksack when you are ferrying gear up the hill to stash for later use. Everest Gear List • With passport, cash, travel documents (travel itinerary and hotel vouchers if ... down suit but also fit snugly over just a base layer when it is hot down low. to the inside of the suit. Just the right size for vertical water bottles. And the rainbow drop seat is excellent There’s a 4 way zipper at front giving plenty of ventilation options as well as that all important pee access, and the front zipper is protected by two overlapping insulated baffles. But be aware that it is still available online from various retailers who still have stock. The braces that are worse than useless. Update – well the cost has come down from £1,000 to £800 and so this is categorically the best value suit on the market. Personally I’d prefer shock is what you’ll get. PHD Double Suit – 1,300g (-35°C / -31°F) – rrp £1,014 … or 1,465g (-50°C / -58°F) – rrp £1,199. There’s no outer zip baffle so, as with the Rab suit, the zipper is directly exposed to the wind and will get frozen with the dripping condensation from your mask. The internal mesh pockets are zippered for extra security and are quite large. Bespoke suits with a great reputation. My gripe with this is that you are then forced in to either putting your mitt over the sleeve and maybe compressing the down in the suit, or if you have a snuggish low volume mitt that won’t go over you will need to put it up the inside the sleeve where the mitt may get squeezed by the cuff. they use (which doesn’t pull through very The internal pockets were situated nice and high to avoid bottles dropping down within the suit and meant that access involved not too much unzipping of the front to get access. Verdict Please contact us if you have any special needs. The North Face Himalayan Suit – 1,950g – rrp £950 (up from £900) Expensive but well thought out in most respects (hobo mitts, access to the inside though the outer pocket) but not all aspects (non removable internal braces – what is the point?). One thing I found to be a big potential drawback was that the internal braces are not removable. With the external pockets also being quite voluminous I’d go for lower volume internal ones that keep a ½l Nalgene snugly in place. Similar to the Mountain Hardwear suit this also features a 6 zipper rainbow drop seat which is zipped all the way from the ankle so not only is it great for toilet access but also for venting off in warmer conditions. This is in need of a buckle for the velcro to go up and over for it to work properly. Features. So whilst they end up with the same number of pockets and amount of storage as most of the other suits you have to undo the front of the suit to get to a lot of your stuff. Improvements have been made, but there has been no radical change until the new PHD Double Suit … Designed to keep you warm and dry, this jacket also features a detachable ski skirt to keep the cold and snow out this season. The suit is filled with HydroDown™ which is down that has been treated to repel moisture and keep you drier and warmer. Without a doubt they have put a lot of thought in to their products and can react immediately to any design alterations (for instance when I mentioned about not having black braces inside a black suit I was told that, from now on, they will be putting some reflective tape in there). The front of the hood is adjusted on each side with a single pull down to tighten and a single pull sideways on a separate attachment to loosen. A great thumb loop and cuff along with pull front adjusters and a volume adjuster But on the rear of the hood they have gone for 2 separate pulls through the same spring loaded toggle. This suit features a 6 zipper rainbow drop seat which is zipped all the way from the ankle so not only is it great for toilet access but also for venting off in warmer conditions. Their blurb mentions Primaloft here and baffles there but at the end of the day, as I said earlier, all these suits are warm so differentiation has to be achieved by features that make the suit more versatile. Removable braces should be the default setting. Alternatively a one handed elasticated pull through a toggle would be much better. If it is given a baffle and better internal pockets it will be almost unbeatable. fit and volume with just one pull on Taped seams, Velcro cuffs, Velcro patches for logos from sponsors, mitt attachment points etc are all other features that you may want to take in to account, depending on your personal preferences. That’s probably why they don’t need to be selling retail. With other suits and combos you might be able to vent off (or not depending on the make and model) by undoing various zippers … but if it’s really windy this has the negative impact of allowing unwanted spindrift in. So you can choose a rainbow drop seat or an up and under or a side opening according to your preference. Pack a down suit! Thigh venting and the rainbow drop seat The internal mesh pockets need a serious redesign because they are an essential part of your summit day self sufficiency and the waist pockets could perhaps be better located. How to Qualify for the Everest College Lawsuit, Student Loan Forgiveness or Discharge Benefits. Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Suit Red/ Black (Close Out) Item # om1298: $1,249.00: availability : out of stock: Description; 800- fill goosedown with a laminate for warmth and waterproof protection. We wear it already from C2 on the summit attempt in order to save weight. The wired hood to keep out the worst of the elements was another well thought out feature and the hood adjustability was great with no loose toggles flying around. There is one strip of Velcro that pulls down on to another strip of Velcro which, if not quite located properly (because you can’t feel the Velcro with your mitts on folks) will end up flapping loose and coming undone. This is a very simple matter for them to rectify and, as mentioned earlier, single hand adjustability should be the default option. The only thing(s) that you are going to have inside your suit are things that need protecting from the cold are a couple of ½ litre water bottles, a camera, a small tube of non freezing sun cream and a radio if you’ve got one. The volume adjuster at the back of the hood is totally useless. I’m a definite fan of outer pockets of the ‘hand warmer’ variety rather than the ‘Napoleon’ variety. There are oodles of pockets which is a great feature, however not all of them are great. The chin baffle is a good feature but a bit fiddly. Like it says at the top of the page … not all down suits are equal. There is one strip of Velcro that pulls down on to another strip of Velcro which, if not quite located properly (because you can’t feel the Velcro with your mitts on folks) will end up flapping loose and coming undone. Thigh venting and the rainbow drop seat Sale price: $22.90. Designed for high altitude mountaineering. Not a great suit, especially at the price. Very poor helmet adjustment. Inside the front, a storm baffle tucks nicely behind the zipper keeping breezes out and there’s an easy to use rainbow zipper / drop pouch for toilet access. All in all this is another great suit to join the main 4 and, at the price, is a great contender. The internal suspenders are absolutely useless because there is not enough Velcro for them to be cinched high enough. Then check compatibility with how you will be wearing your mitts and your huge boots – are you a mitt over the cuff or a mitts inside the sleeve type of person? for toilet access. but don’t be swayed by cost otherwise you will find yourself compromised on the mountain. That’s probably why they don’t need to be selling retail. A generous and workable hood with one And the rainbow drop seat is excellent The down jacket should be one of the thickest made. Trying to get a ½l Nalgene in there whilst wearing mitts will be a definite distraction. If you need to keep the fridge down low but still want the convenience of 2 nice big storage drawers then this system might be the one for you! Don Whillans and Pete Hutchinson designed and tested the first suits way back in the 50s – Don, a plumber by trade, wanted a boiler suit … In comparison, a down suit is cumbersome, heavy and will fill up most of your pack, when the only day it will be of any real use is on summit day. A great hood but the chin flap is too big This suit features a 6 zipper rainbow drop seat which is zipped all the way from the ankle so not only is it great for toilet access but also for venting off in warmer conditions. Everest Millet Boots & Expedition Down Suit Combo- Special Price. The elasticated braces didn’t feel as comfortable as non elasticated ones. As with the Mountain Hardwear suit and The North Face suit there is a hobo mitt located within the sleeve, which is a great feature, and this is backed up with velcro adjustment for the wrist. This Down Suit was built to withstand the harshest conditions atop the world’s highest peaks, with a fully welded, waterproof construction and 800-fill down to keep you warm. Some suits vent better than others. If you are buying a suit for the first time it’s all too easy to concentrate on how warm it needs to be but actually you end up wearing a suit in a whole variety of conditions and quite often you actually want a suit that isn’t too warm and allows you to be cool enough. May 11, 2017 - When spring comes, Mt Everest turnsâ into a deadly free-for-all as tooâ many climbers scramble for theâ ultimate thrill, writes Lukas Eberle. Another aspect that particularly impressed me is that when I got back from Everest and was giving feedback Peter Ellitot took the effort to come and visit me at home and we chatted through everything over a cup of tea and a biscuit. The pockets were very useful for keeping important items accessible. The chunky leg zippers just have an internal baffle which sits really well. With hand warmer pockets instead of ‘Napoleon’ pockets it will be an awesome suit (let’s face it they both do the job of being pockets but the hand warmer position is more user friendly). Marmot 8,000m Suit– 1,845g – rrp £800 Style to suit you with the detachable faux fur trim and layer up with the rest of your ski outfit to complete the look. Tents $3,000 new (sleeping, cooking, toilet, storage at 4 camps for 3 people) Cooks $5,000 per cook and assistant for 6 weeks; Food and fuel $800 per person for 6 weeks; Climbing … Of all the manufacturers, PHD are the only ones who make bespoke suits.

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